Asia / Chronological / Destinations / Hotels & Resorts / Island Nation

Getting Soaked in Japan

Perhaps none of Japan’s numerous cultural icons are more endearing or significant to the Japanese people, and visitors as well, than the famed onsen (hot springs resorts/hotels and spas) located throughout the island country.

Stone lanterns

Stone lanterns, Toshogu Shrine, Nikko, Japan

A big part of the Japanese lifestyle is enjoying the numerous onsen, or hot springs resorts, year-round on a quick weekend getaway or a longer indulgent vacation. For local folks, relaxing in the invigorating thermal baths while enjoying exotic and traditional onsen cuisine and related activities is part of their natural lifestyle. For the Japanese, a dip in a hot spring bath contributes to the renewal and rejuvenation of body and soul and affords a cultural experience like few others.

Japan’s Hot Springs – A National Obsession

Hot spring bath

Open air hot spring bath, Hokkaido, Japan

Varied onsen cusine

Dinner at onsen features varied cuisine, Hokkaido, Japan

To say that the onsen are Japan’s national obsession is something of an understatement. Japan probably has more natural hot springs baths per capita than any other country in the world. An onsen stay will add a relaxing and adventurous dimension to any Japan visit. The following is a sampler of good onsens around Japan.

Honshu-The Main Island

A good place to begin your onsen tour of Japan is the main island of Honshu. Nikko, about two hours north of Tokyo via high speed train is in Nikko National Park, amidst a panorama of forest, mountains, lakes and gushing streams. Nikko is famed for the lavish Toshogu Shrine complex built in 1636 that serves as the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1603. Visiting Toshogu Shrine is a solemn and spiritual experience as one strolls through the temples and buildings of the complex.

While Nikko boasts several onsen, Senhime Monogatari Inn is one of the best. Senhime features comfortable Japanese-style rooms and traditional cuisine served in intimate private dining rooms. The cuisine emphasizes the freshest of local produce, seafood and more. The onsen baths are inviting and invigorating with separate facilities for both men and women. For details, see: www.japaneseguesthouses.com/db/nikko/senhime.htm For information on Nikko, see: www.nikko-jp.org/english/index.html

Venison lunch

Venison lunch entree at Hokkaido, Japan, onsen resort

South of Tokyo is the popular hot springs resort town of Hakone which lies near Mount Fuji in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. Hakone is an area of high mountains and features the beautiful Lake Ashi with winding roads and railways that connect the towns and villages of the region. The area’s volcanic origins account for the numerous onsen. Visitors enjoy ferry boat rides across the lake and then a ropeway (cable car lift) ride across the still steaming spectacular Owakudani Gorge. On clear days, Mount Fuji appears through the clouds. Hakone, the main town, is small and compact and situated in a deep valley surrounded by high peaks.

Hotellerie Maille Coeur Shougetsu is a boutique-style hotel with comforting onsen baths to soothe away a hard day’s travel. The bath schedule alternates between men and women,so everyone can enjoy the variety of each. A full-service restaurant provides creative Japanese-inspired cuisine with a set dinner menu and traditional buffet breakfast. For details, see: www.shougetsu.com For information on Hakone, see: www.jnto.go.jp/eng/location/regional/kanagawa/hakone.html

Family onsen dinner

Family enjoys onsen dinner experience, Hakone, Japan

Bridge to Heaven

The Bridge to Heaven peninsula, Amanohashidate, Japan

Seafood medley

Seafood sashimi medley is onsen dinner entree, Japan

Snuggled along the Sea of Japan coast northwest of Kyoto is one of Japan’s top scenic spots, the quiet fishing village of Amanohashidate. The “Bridge to Heaven,” a narrow 2.2-mile sand spit reaching across Miyazu Bay is the main attraction. Japanese mythology has it that Amanohashidate is where the gods conceived the islands of Japan. View the “Bridge” from a lookout atop Kasamatsu Park across the bay (accessible by ferry boat-or walk across the sand spit) by bending over and looking upside down between your legs, which makes the sand spit appear to be floating in air.

The Taikyourou Inn is centrally located near the sand spit bridge and offers traditional onsen rooms, soothing baths, and cuisine with the emphasis on fresh local seafood. For details, see: www.japanican.com For information on Amanohashidate, see: www.jnto.go.jp

The venerable old Samurai town of Kakunodate is in north central Honshu. Known as “Little Kyoto,” Kakunodate was founded as a castle town in 1620, and is noted for its collection of original Samurai houses, some of which are living museums of Japan’s feudal era. Kakunodate’s other attraction is the numerous weeping cherry trees that originated in Kyoto. The sakura are the main attraction of the town’s springtime cherry blossom festival.

Seafood stew

Seafood stew is an onsen dinner entree, Japan

Rooftop onsen

Rooftop onsen bath, Lake Akan, Hokkaido, Japan

Onsen dinner

Variation is theme for onsen dinner, Hokkaido, Japan

Just a couple of miles outside of town is Kukunodate Onsen Kayokan, a superb modern low-rise hotel that features spacious traditional rooms, buffet breakfast and dinner and both indoor and outdoor baths with separate facilities for men and women. For details, see: www.japanican.com For information on Kakunodate, see: www.jnto.go.jp

Hokkaido-North Island

Hokkaido, Japan’s northern island, is predominately rural and boasts several national parks and geothermal hot springs areas and the ubiquitous onsen. Situated in the middle of Hokkaido is the resort town of Sounkyo. The resort is of part of Daisetsuzan National Park, Japan’s largest, and sits in the spectacular Sounkyo Gorge. The park offers year around outdoor activities from hiking and backpacking to biking and cable car lifts. Scenic nature abounds with beautiful valleys, rock formations and plunging waterfalls. The small resort town provides shops, coffee houses, restaurants and several onsen as well.

Sounkaku Grand Hotel is a full-service hotel that pampers guests with traditional Japanese guest rooms, a large buffet dining room combining western and Japanese dishes, and a large complex of indoor and outdoor hot springs baths. After a day of hiking or exploring the park, a soak in the onsen baths will quickly relieve the day’s stress and strain. For details, see: www.sounkaku.co.jp/en/index.html For information on Sounkyo, see: www.sounkyo.net/english/

Located in eastern Hokkaido is Akan National Park, a preserve of dense forest, clearwater streams and lakes and volcanic mountains with hot springs areas. Lake Akan-ko is a major attraction in all seasons with outdoor activities to match. The lakeside town of Akan Kohan is a visitor center with several onsen lodgings, restaurants, shops, activity vendors and more. This region of Hokkaido is noted for the indigenous Ainu people and culture. Ainu arts and crafts shops provide fine woodcrafts, artworks, jewelry and more produced by local artisans. The Akan Tsuruga Besso Hinanoza Resort in Akan Kohan features fine Hokkaido-style cuisine creatively prepared using fresh local seafood and produce. Some rooms feature a private in room rotenburo, hot tub. The hotel has separate gender indoor/outdoor baths, and a rooftop outdoor bath provides nice lake views while visitors soak up the ambiance. For details, see: www.tsuruga-g.com/english/02hinanoza/index.html For information on Lake Akan, see: www.lake-akan.com/en/index.html

Private in room rotenburo tub

Private in room rotenburo tub is luxurious onsen touch, Japan

Onsen server explains dinner

Onsen server explains dinner menu, Matsuyama, Japan

Onsen dinner salad

Onsen dinner salad attractively presented, Matsuyama, Japan

Down South on Shikoku

On Japan’s western inland seaside of Shikoku Island lies the bustling city of Matsuyama and its famed Dogo Onsen, recognized as Japan’s oldest. Since the 8th. century, the onsen has provided relaxation and refuge to emperors, feudal lords and commoners alike. Today, Dogo Onsen is a popular destination for travelers seeking a rejuvenating plunge in its numerous hot springs and resort baths. The Dogo Onsen Honkan is perhaps the oldest and best known public bathhouse in all Japan where even day visitors can luxuriate in a comforting hot spring.

Among the onsen resorts, the Hotel Bettei Oborotsukiyo stands out as one of the most luxurious. This small 19-suite hotel is located near the commercial center of Dogo Onsen, and provides first-class accommodations and service. A spacious Japanese-style guestroom includes its own private rotenburo hot tub and provides the ultimate in personal luxury and comfort. The hotel’s separate men’s and women’s bathing facilities are also top notch. A hotel stay usually includes both breakfast and dinner, both being served in individual private dining rooms by the gracious staff. Guests can choose a traditional Japanese or western breakfast, but dinner is strictly local Japanese cuisine with an emphasis on fresh seafood that can include varied fish, shrimp, lobster, scallops, octopus, squid and others.

Regardless of the menu specifics, guests are guaranteed a wonderful, satisfying and adventurous meal. Also, be sure to try the local fresh oranges and other citrus fruits. Matsuyama’s year-round semi-tropical climate allows local farmers to produce incredible sweet and luscious oranges and grapefruit. You’d be hard pressed to find oranges that are sweeter and tastier than those found here. Also, don’t miss seeing Matsuyama Castle, prominently located on Katsuyama Hill in the middle of Matsuyama. The castle dates from the 1600s and is considered one of Japan’s best preserved feudal castles.

Tofu lobster

Tofu lobster entree invites onsen guest, Matsuyama, Japan

For information on Hotel Bettei Oborotsukiyo, see: Web: web.travel.rakuten.co.jp For information on Matsuyama, see: Web: www.japan-guide.com

For more information on visiting Japan and staying at onsen resorts, check the Japan-Guide.com site: www.japan-guide.com/ and the Japan National Tourism Office site: www.jnto.go.jp

Previous versions of this article have appeared in The Hawai’i TraveLog, Web: pacpics.com/?page_id=194 and www.gonomad.com

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